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PRISC1LLA 



Published by 

ThePnscillaPublishing Co. 

Boston, Mass. 



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Now Ready 

Bound Volumes of the 

Priscilla Fancy Work 

Instruction Books 




Hundreds of thousands of Needleworkers have purchased the paper-covered 
Priscilla Instruction Books, and have been thoroughly delighted with their clear, 
simple instructions for various kinds of Fancy Work. 

However, there has long been a demand for these books in a more substantial 
form so that they could be added to home libraries and withstand the hard 
usage given books of reference. 

In response to this demand, we now offer you the entire set of Priscilla 
Instruction Books, handsomely and durably bound in red Law Buckram, with 
titles stamped in gold. 

Price, $1.35 per Volume, Postpaid 

Each volume contains four Instruction Books as follows : 



VOLUME I 

Irish Crochet No. 1 

Irish Crochet No. 2 

Filet Crochet 

Edgings and Insertions 

VOLUME IV 
Punched Work Embroidery 
French and Eyelet Embroidery 
Colored Cross Stitch No. 1 
Colored Cross Stitch No. 2 



VOLUME II 

Tatting 

Hardanger 

Wool Knitting 

Wool Crochet 

VOLUME V 
Filet Crochet No. 2 
Crochet Bedspreads 
Netting 
Drawn Work 



VOLUME III 
Bead Work 
Basketry 
Macrame 
Bobbin Lace 

Every book in the Priscilla Library is a genuine teacher. All the different 
stitches are fully described and explained, then in addition there are a multitude of 
illustrations showing stitches, details, motifs and finished pieces, all of which makes 
the work just as clear and simple for the beginner as for the expert needleworker. 
Send your order for the volumes you wish at once as the first edition is limited. 

Priscilla Publishing Co., 85 Broad St., Boston, Mass. 



$rt£ctlla JSettmg pook 

CONTAINING FULL DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING 
SQUARE AND CIRCULAR 

getting 

AND FOR THE 

VARIOUS STITCHES WITH WHICH 
NETTING IS ORNAMENTED 

ALSO 

A GREAT NUMBER OF FINISHED PIECES 

IN THE DIFFERENT VARIETIES OF 

NETTING AND FILET BRODE 

EDITED BY 

BELLE ROBINSON 
PRICE, 25 CENTS 



PUBLISHED BY 

Cfje $risctlla $ut}lt£(f)tng Company 

85 BROAD STREET. BOSTON, MASS. 



Copyright, 1914. by The Priscilla Publishing Company 

Trade Mark Reg. U. S. Patent Office 

Entered at Stationers' Hall. London 

All rights reserved 



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No. 600. Cover of Filet, Embroidery, and Cluny Lace 
(See page 28 for description; pages 38, 39, 40, and 41, patterns of Filet, Point de toile) 









)CI.A387567 
2 



NOV \1[<m 



NETTING 



ETTING has been done from time imme- 
morial; the date of its invention is un- 



^| known. Specimens of netting are still to 
be seen among Egyptian relics, that are said 
to be three thousand years old, or even of still 
greater age. 

Jt is easy to net, as the saying is, "when you know 
how"; the only art required is, in drawing up the 
loops, to have them all exactly the same size. But, 
simple as the operation is. it is difficult to describe. 
The best teacher would be a boy who has made his 



obliged to use a long, fine darning-needle with as long 
a thread as can be easily manipulated. Practice will 
enable the worker to use a thread two or three yards 
long, and by means of the "weaver's knot" lengthen it 
indefinitely. 

The circumference of the mesh-stick, whether round 
or fiat, is equal to two sides of the mesh; the size 
of the mesh-stick decides the size of the netting- 
needle to be used. The needle filled with thread must 
go through the finished mesh, and that limits the size 
of mesh-stick that can be used with any given needle. 




Mesh-Stick and Nktting Needle 



own fishing-nets with a longitudinal ball of twine for 
a netting-needle and a lath for a mesh-stick. 

Equipment. — The tools for netting are few and 
easily obtained. Netting-needles, mesh-sticks, the rib- 
bon-wound frame (Fig. 14) for stretching the net, and 
blunt-pointed tapestry needles for weaving or darn- 
ing the net after it is stretched. A netting-needle is 
a long piece of steel with eyes in both ends, as is 
shown in Fig. I. The needle is wound with the work- 
ing-thread, somewhat after the manner of a shuttle; 
the thread is passed through the eyes to hold it se- 
curely. A needle should never be wound too full, or 
it will be hard to handle. A mesh-stick is needed also; 
these are of bone or ivory, and are either flat or 
round ; the flat ones being especially adapted to the 
making of antique lace. Steel knitting-needles are 
often used for mesh-sticks when fine netting is to 
be made, when the meshes of the net are as small as 
ten to an inch. The finest netting-needle (No. 22) 
will not pass through the mesh easily, so one is 



Mesh-sticks are numbered by the actual measure 
around the stick, as Ytt, inch, 5« inch, % inch, or 1 
inch. The % inch corresponds very well with the 
"lead pencil" one often finds in directions. The [-inch 
mesh-stick makes a mesh one-half inch square, and 
the same proportion is true of any other size. 

Netting-needles are offered in six sizes: Nos. 12, 14. 
16, 18, 20, and 22, No. 22 being the finest. It is some- 
what longer, but in width is the same size as illus- 
trated at Fig. 1. Any of the needles can be used with 
mesh-sticks - s .s inch or larger; No. 16 needle is the 
largest that can be used with fjs-inch mesh-stick. 

Linen thread, spool or skein thread, is used for 
netting, principally, especially for square netting ; but 
much of the circular netting is done with cotton spool 
thread. For the net a firmly twisted thread is to be 
desired, and with some stitches the same thread used 
for the net is best for darning or embroidery. This 
is true of Point de toile, while Point de reprise is 
very effective when soft linen floss or cotton floss is 
used for darning. 




Fig. 2. First Position of Hands 



•~ig. 3. Second Position 
(See page 4) 

3 



Fig. 4. Third Position 



Fig. 5. 
Foundation Loop 





until the loop over the stick is held in place by a 
cnot above the stick and on the foundation-loop. 
Only practice can teach how to do this. Do not 
ow the knot to tighten until the loop forms 
over the stick the exact size desired. 
Figure 5. — To make a square of netting, 
as for antique lace, pull the stick out 
f the loop, use the loop for a foun- 
dation and work diagonally, mak- 
ng two loops in the first row, 
followed by three in the 
third row, etc., as appears in 
Fig. 5. Although the 
loops are made diago- 
nally they can be 
ulled out to form 
perfect squares. 



Fig. 6. Foundation 
Loop, Circular 
Netting. (See 
page 5) 



Fig. 7. Netted Frame. (See page 5) 



To Work Netting. — Netting is 
started from a foundation-loop, 
which may be discarded after the 
work is sufficiently advanced. Fig- 
ure 2, showing the first position of 
hands, illustrates the manner of at- 
taching this foundation-loop by 
means of a small cushion secured to 
a table; all that is required is a 
firm starting-point. 
Take the mesh-stick in the left hand, between the 
thumb and forefinger, with the other fingers extended 
under the stick. The working-thread should be tied 
through the foundation-loop; Take the needle (filled 
with thread, whose end is tied through the founda- 
tion-loop) in the right hand. Pass the thread down- 
ward over the stick and throw it around the fingers 
in a loose loop, bringing it up on the outside of the 
fingers. Now lay the thread over the forefinger 
and under the thumb, towards the left, holding it 
tightly between the thumb and forefinger, as in Fig. 2, 
illustrating the first position of hands. Now bring 
the thread down again back of the hand and point 
the needle upward on the inside. Next pass the nee- 
dle through the loose loop held around the fingers 

and under the mesh- 
stick; also through the 
foundation - loop and 
above the thread held 
by the thumb. Figure 3 
shows this second po- 
sition of the hands. 
Draw the needle up 
gradually until the 
thread forms a close 
loop over the mesh- 
stick. Gradually let go 
the thread held by the 
thumb (Fig. 4, third 
position of the hands), 
and draw the needle 





Fig. 8. Netted Oblong. ( See page 5 ) 



particularly when a great number have been made, 
sufficient to form an openwork fabric. In the second 
row, whether containing two loops or more, turn the 
work and let the thread pass down the side, and so 
in every succeeding row. Additional thread should be 
tied at either edge. 

The foundation-loop is not used after the first 
row; the second row is worked in the loop or loops 
hanging from the first, and so on, one loop being 
knotted in the one above it. To complete the square, 
increase each row with one loop; that is, make two 
knots in the last loop of each of the succeeding rows. 
Continue to increase until you have one more loop 
than the square should number. Make a row with- 
out increase or decrease ; in the next row begin to 
decrease, joining the last two loops of each row 
together by a knot. Finish the last two loops over 
the thumb and break off. 




Fig. 9. Circular Netting 
(See page 5) 



Fig, 10. Circular Netting 
with Widening. (See page 6) 




Fig. ii. Point de Toile, First Process 

(See page 6 and Fig. 13) 

Another form of square netiing frequently used 
as a foundation for Filet Erode is known as the 
battlemented square. As many loops as are required 
for one side of the square are worked on a founda- 
tion thread. This thread will be easier handled if 
stretched from one point to another some distance apart 
rather than in a loop; it can be tacked to a window- 
sill or table. Work one plain row into these loops. 
Turn, omitting to work into the last loop of the 
previous row, and proceed thus, always skipping 
the last loop of the preceding row. This forms a 
triangle, which is now removed from the foundation 
thread. Place the last loop 
made on a support and join the 
Wi irking thread into the loop at 
the end of the first long row, 
and proceed as before, always 
skipping the last loop of each 
n '\v until the square is finished. 

Figure 8. — Oblong strips of 
tutting (Fig. 8) are made in 
this way : Proceed as for the 
square filet described (Fig. 5), 
and work until there are two 
more stitches in the row than 
are required for the width of 
the oblong. To obtain the length 
necessary, work alternate rows, 
decreasing at the end of one. 
and increasing at the end of the 
other. When the length is suffi- 
cient, finish out the corner by de- 
creasing at the end of every row. 

Figure 7.— At Fig. 7 a por- 
tion of a framework of plain 
netting is shown, such as is used 
to surround a central square of 
linen. The work is begun at 
the corner, and the loops in- 
creased until there are two more 
than twice the number necessary 
For the breadth of the frame. 
The illustration is five loops 
broad, and will require twelve 
loops for the broadest part of 
each corner. Now work in half 




Point de Toile, Second Process 
(See Fig. 13) 

of these as for an oblong, until the next corner is 
reached. Turn, and work as far as shown in the 
cut; break the thread and begin on the other side of 
the frame, working around to a point directly opposite. 
Finish off the point or corner (not shown in the illus- 
tration) by decreasing at the end of every row. 

In using any of the foregoing forms of plain net- 
ting for the application of lace stitches, stretch the 
finished net in the wrapped wire frame. 

Figures 6 and 9. — To make circular netting, start 
on a long thread, as appears in Fig. 6, for a founda- 
tion loop ; work the loops over a large mesh-stick. 




•ig. 13. Point de Toile. Completed. (See Figs. 11, 12) 

5 



Make fourteen loops in the 
first row; then draw the 
thread up as tightly as pos- 
sible, so as to form a ring, 
and fasten off. For the 
second row, fasten the 
thread to a loop and work 
one loop in each loop of 
the first row, using a small 
stick. To avoid fastening 
the thread anew for every 
row, make a loop over the 
thumb, as follows : Put the 
thread over the stick and 
fingers, and the needle 
through the loop, as usual, 
but before tightening the 
knot pull the stick out of 
the loop just made and 
make this loop exactly as 
long as the loop above. 
The completed circle is 
shown at Fig. 9. A second 
method of starting the cir- 
cular netting is found on 
page 9. 

Figure 10. — To make a 
circular netting by increases, work six loops on the 
foundation-loop and draw up the ring. Make a row 
with one knot in the first loop and two in the second ; 
repeat around. In succeeding rows make two knots 
in each of the previous increases ; that is, increase 







Fig. 15. Weaving in Proces 



( See page S ) 




by one loop. The cut shows the work in process. 
As the net should be very tight and firm when the 
different stitches are being made, a metal frame 
should be used, and it should correspond in size and 
shape with the piece of work that is to be done. 
The frames are sold, wrapped 
with wadding and ribbon, all 
ready for the work to be at- 
tached. These frames are to 
be had in six different sizes : 
Nos. 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, and 20. 
No. to is 4->8 inches square 
(inside measure) ; No. 12 is 
4J4 inches; No. 14 is 6 inches; 
No. 16 is 6H inches ; No. 18 
is 7 l /i inches; No. 20 is 8 inches. 
The frame must be selected 
fully as large, if not a little 
larger than the measure of 
the net when it is stretched 
to its utmost. The illustration 
(Fig. 14) shows clearly how 
the net is to be overcast into 
the frame. If one has not 
the frame of suitable size, a 
larger frame can be made to 
serve as well ; if the overcast- 
ing stitches are longer they 
will hold as securely. The 
beauty of the work consists 
in the perfect evenness and 
uniformity of the net, and of 
each individual mesh of which 
it is composed. 

Figures 11 to 14 inclusive 
— Figure 14, shows the 
frame with net overcast in 
place and weaving begun. The 
first stitcli given is "Point de 
toile," linen stitch, or weaving 




Fig. 16. Point de Reprise. ( See page 8) 




Fig. 17. Point p'Esprit. (See page 9) 




Fig. 18. Etoile, First Process 
(See Fig. 19 and page 9) 




Fig. 19. Etoile, Second Process. (See Fig. 1X1 




Fie. 20. Etoile, Completed. (See. Figs. 18, 19) 




I Brides and Rosettes. (See page 9) 




Fig. 22. Dents, Point de 
Reprise. ( See page 9) 




Coins, Point de Reprise 
(See page 9) 

back and forth only once. 
Figure 15. — Any design 
must be carefully studied be- 
fore beginning, to decide in 
which direction to proceed. 
Figure 15 makes a good study. 
After tying the thread to the 
mesh, leaving a few inches to 
be fastened afterward, the nee- 
dle (with blunt point) passes 
invariably over a thread and 
under a thread, whether in a 
straight line or turning around 
a corner of mesh ( see needle. 
Fig. 13) or turning straight 
back to fill the mesh with the 
second thread or crossing these 
with two rows of weaving. 
Every effort should be made 



stitch it might be 
called. Figure II, 
page 5, shows the 
first process, darn- 
ing back and forth; 
Fig. 12 shows the 
second process ; and 
Fig. 13 shows com- 
pleted stitch. In the 
first two illustra- 
tions the meshes 
are large and the 
darning 
back and 
forth is re- 
p e a t e d , 
making 
four threads 
each way ; 
in the com- 
pleted work, 
Fig. 13 and 
Figs. 14 and 
15 on page 
6, the thread 
is woven 




Etoile. Point de 
(See page 9) 

to connect the design where possible, but it is allowed 
to carry the thread to an isolated mesh, or a small 
bit that is not connected with any part of the design, 
by overcasting along the meshes between ; but even 
in this carrying the thread, the rule of "over one and 
under one" still holds. 

Figure 16. — The stitch known as "Point de reprise," 




Fig. 25. Filet Sf.rti. (See page 9) 





Fig. 26. Feuilles, Point de Reprise 
First Process. (See Fig. 27 and page g) 



27. Feuilles, Point de Reprise 
Completed. (See Fig. 26) 




Fig. 29. Point df 



or "darning stitch," is shown at Fig. 16; rilling over 
and under with ordinary darning, describes this stitch. 
Upon the size of the mesh and thread depends the 
number of times the thread is carried back and 
forth ; the mesh should be well tilled. 

Figure 17 is known as "Point d'esprit," and the 
first and second processes are clearly shown in the 
illustration. 

Figures 18, 19, and 20 give first and second proc- 
esses and completed figure of "Etoile" or "Star." 

Figure 21. — "Brides with Rosettes" of simple and 
alternate weaving are given at Fig. 21. By carefully 
noting the work of each needle, it can be readily 
understood. 

Figure 22. — In Fig. 22, which is called "Dents" — 
Point de reprise, the "tooth" is made by drawing 
a thread from the corner of a mesh to the middle of 
the opposite side, back to the adjacent corner of the 
same mesh, back to the middle again, then darned in 
Point de reprise 

Figure 23 is another "Ftoile" made with "Point de 
feston" or "buttonhoje-stitch." One buttonhole-stitch 
is made each time across the base of the points, and 
two buttonhole-stitches together up each side line. 

Figure 24 is a good example of "Coins" — Point de 
reprise. The "Brides," or twisted bars, are placed 
lirst. then the darning extends back and forth around 
live threads at each "corner." 

Figure 25 is called "Filet Serti." A fine instance of 
this is to be found in the grape-leaves of No. 619. 
pane 24. If the thread that "surrounds" these corners 
is heavier than the weaving thread, it is called "Filet 
Richelieu." 

Figures 26 and 27 are "Feuilles" — Point de reprise. 
The foundation threads are drawn and the darning of 
the "leaves" is made over two groups of threads in 



one leaf and over three groups 
in the other. This work is 
sometimes called "Guipure." 

Figure 28, shows Point de 
toile completed and embroid- 
ered "Point de poste," in process 
and completed. 

Figure 29 is Border of "Point 
de feston" ; any straight or bat- 
tlemented border or edge of 
points along a diagonal may be 
finished with buttonhole-stitch 
after two or more threads of 
darning strengthen the outline 
Figure 30 — Additional direc- 
tions are offered for a practical 
foundation for Circular netting 
(see Fig. 30) ; a foundation one 
can use indefinitely without the 
work of setting up each piece. There are 
difficulties to overcome in setting up a round 
piece over a straight cord, and the fact of 
using the same foundation for any number 
or pieces makes it desirable. The rough or 
uneven appearance near the beginning shows 
where dozens of doilies have been cut off. 

Sew up a small strip of muslin and hem 
both ends ; in the edge of one hem cut several 




OUNDATION FOR CIRCULAR 



slots, into this hem run a 
cord, bringing it up 
through every slot ; now 
tie all the loops together 
(thread three or four 
inches long from edge of 
muslin to knot), and drop 
it over the head of the 
clamp which holds the em- 
broidery hoops. This, at- 
tached to a low table, will 




No. 601. Lace Edge. (See page 37, Fig. 85) 



are nearly always suffi- 
cient for all fine netting. 
When the piece is finished 
cut it from the foundation 
as many squares from the 
first row as it requires; 
with a pin pick off the su- 
perfluous knots and gather 
it up on a bit of the net- 
ting thread. 



hold the work very firmly, and the loops coming at 
intervals from the muslin, the work will pull evenly. 
Begin the work by netting into the lower hem of the 
muslin, making the first row with a sewing or darning 
needle. Net two or more rows before beginning the 
piece; these rows can be made with any size mesh- 
stick at hand, steel knitting-needles of various sizes 



This is a bit of linen lace 
25, five meshes to an inch, 



Number 601. Lace — 
made of linen thread No, 
with mesh-stick H inch or slightly larger, and netting- 
needle No. 16 or iS. The piece is about 7 inches long 
and 2' 2 inches wide. Two stitches are used. Point de 
toile woven with the same thread as the net, and Point 
de reprise darned with a soft linen floss. 




No. 602. Centrepiece. (See page 11 

10 



"ilet Designs on page 17) 



Number 602. Centre- 
piece. — This linen centre- 
piece is embroidered lavishly 
with French work, Hedebo, 
and Reticella. and inserts of 
Filet. It measures 36 inches 
in diameter, the Filet in- 
serts are l l /i inches square 
and 4 T _. inches square. There 
are four of the former, 
(27 meshes square), all of 
the same design ; in the 
eight larger squares there 
are two different designs 
(37 meshes square). The 
three designs are given at 
Figs. 44, 47, and 48, page 1 




No. 603. A Very Old Piece of Filet. 

,-„„.. .,. The number of de- with about 75 rows, 
signs used could lie varied according to the taste of the reprise. Along the 



worker; the only limitation 
is the space allowed by the 
embroidery design. The de- 
sign for the lace edge is 
given at Fig. 46, page 17. 

Number 603. Doily. — 

This is a very old piece of 
Filet. It is diagonal net, 
which differs from square 
or circular in that the 
meshes of one side or end 
are made on a cord, prefer- 
ably stretched from one 
point to another. This piece 
is about 49 meshes wide, 
The design is done in Point de 
edge the scallops are made in 




No. 604. Doily Embroidered in Point de Toile and Point de Reprise. (See page 12) 

11 







circular netting; half of a centre is netted into one 
mesh and plain netting back and forth forms the 
scallop. 

Number 604. Doily. — This doily is about 7 inches 
in diameter. It is woven and darned with the stitches 
of No. 6oi, page 10, and the outer edge is buttonholed 
after the edge is woven. While the cut is not quite 
actual size, yet it is large enough to copy without a 
block pattern. A little caution might be given, since 
there are several slight inaccuracies in the weaving. 
This is often found to be the case in much of the old 
work ; it does not detract from its beauty, but one may 
be misled if they begin to follow the pattern, taking for 
granted that all four figures are exactly alike. The 
corrected pattern is given in Priscilla Filet Crochet 
Book, No. 1, Fig. 43, page 22. 



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Fig. 32. Detail of Fig. 31. Point de Reprise 
and Point d'Esprit 






AA 
Fig. 31. Filet Band with Corner. (See Fig. 32 and page 13) 

12 



50 meshes wide 



Figure 31. Border. — This handsome border, with 
corner, is suitable for curtains, or for any purpose re- 
quiring a band and corner. From the detail, Fig. 32 
(which is actual size), it will be seen that the net is 
9 meshes to an inch. The band is 50 meshes wide and 
requires 84 meshes in length for one repeat of the 
pattern ; this repeat is from A to B, then the corner 
design is completed, and at AA the repeat is started 
again. The stitches employed are Point de reprise 
and Point d'esprit. The design is shown so distinctly 
in the work that a block pattern is not necessary. 

Figures 33 and 34. Initials. — Figure 33 gives an 
initial in Point de toile, with net and weaving both 
of No. 60 spool linen thread. The initial below. 







Fig. 33. Initial Letter 33 Meshes High 
(See page 43) 





<;. 34. Initial Letter 33 Meshes High 
( See page 42) 



No. 605. Scarf. ( See pages 14, 45, and 48) 



13 



Fig. 34, is made, both net and weaving, of No. 60 lace 
thread. They are suitable for towel inserts, the thread 
and work being heavier than most of Filet. The let- 
ters are a meshes high, and from the alphabet, 
Fig. 98 on pages 42 and 43. 

Number 605. Scarf. — This scarf is about i]4 yards 
long and 13 inches wide. Four Filet squares (53 
meshes) are combined with thirteen hemstitched, 
embroidered panels and ten square medallions of 
Cluny. The Filet squares measure 6~y$ inches, the 
patterns of which are given at Figs. 103 and 104, 
page 45, and Figs. 113 and 114, page 48. The thir- 
teen linen panels are finished 6^ inches by 3 3-16 ; 
the ten Cluny squares measure 3 3-16 inches. In all 
Mich pieces as this, the net should be made first, the 
required number of meshes for the design; the linens 
finished to correspond in length with the net, and in 



width with the Cluny. A little variation in making 
the net is allowed if the linen panels are finished 
afterward the same measure. 

Number 606. Cushion. — This cushion of embroid- 
ered linen and two Filet inserts is 18 inches square, 
and the Filet inserts (48 meshes) are 5 inches square. 
The pattern is Fig. 112, page 47. 

Number 607. Scarf. — This piece is iJ4 yards long 
and 26 inches wide. It is of linen, embroidered in 
eyelet and ladder work, with eight Reticella medallions 
and eight Filet inserts (27 meshes) each 3 1 /, inches 
square. Four designs (each used twice) are found at 
Figs. 35, 36, 37, and 39, page 17. The edge is Filet 
lace, pattern at Fig. 42, page 17. 

Number 608. Cape Collar. Materials. — Linen 




No. 606. Cushion Cover of Embroidered Linen and Filet. (See page 4, ) 

1-t 



spool thread, No. 90; knitting-needle, medium size; 
small (f£-inch) and medium (\s-inch) mesh-sticks. 
The knitting-needle will he designated as "needle," 
and the mesh-sticks as "small" and "medium." On 
foundation thread net 134 stitches over small mesh- 
stick. 2d and 3d rows — Plain netting over needle. 
4th row — Plain, over medium mesh-stick. $th to 8th 
rows, inclusive — Plain, over needle, gtli row — Over 
small, net 2 in each. 10th row — Over needle, net 2 
together, rilli row — Over small, net 2 in each. 12th 
to Kith rows, inclusive — Plain, over needle. 17th row 
— Over small, net 2 in each. 
lSth row — Over needle, net 
2 together, lgtli row — Over 
needle, plain. 20th row — 
Over small, net 2 in each. 
21st row — Over needle, net 2 
together. Seven rowsi 22d to 
28th, inclusive) — Plain, over 
needle. 2Qth row — Over me- 
dium, net 2 in each. 30th 
row — Over needle, net 2 to- 
gether. 31st and $2d rows 
— Plain, over needle. 33d 
roiv — Over medium, net 2 
in each. 34tli row — Over 
needle, take up 2 together. 
Eight rows {35th to 42d, 
inclusive ) — Plain, over nee- 
dle. 13d row — Plain, over 
medium. 44th row — Over 
medium, make spider-stitch 
as follows : * Take up the 
2d stitch and net, then take 

up the i~t stitch and net *; 

repeal. / ight 1 ows ( f$th to 

52d, inclusive) — Plain, over 
needle. i.,\/ row — Over me- 
dium, net 2 in each. 54th row 

— Over needle, * first take 

up 1 stitch, then take up 2 

stitches together * ; repeat. 

55th and 56th rows — Plain, 

over needle. 57th row — Over 

small, net 1 stitch in every 

alternate mesh. 58th row — 

Over small, omitting the 

same mesh and netting 5 in 

the next mesh. jgth and both 

rows — Over needle, omitting 

the same mesh each time. 
For the standing collar of 

No. 60S use small-size darn- 
ing-needle to take up the 

Stitches around the neck; 

first take up 1 stitch and 

then take up 2 stitches to- 
gether; repeat throughout 

tlie row. 2d row— Plain 

(net with the darning nee- 
dle over the knitting-nee- 
dle). 3d row — Plain, over 

small, /th and 5th rows — 

Plain, over needle. Then 

follow two bands of Rose 

netting (4 row. of work). 

The first of these 4 rows 



is plain, over small mesh-stick. 2d row—Ovet needle 
in this way: * Draw the first stitch through the second 
and net it ; then draw the second through the first 
stitch and net it *. ( These two rows are the 6th and 
-th rows.) 8th and oth rows— Repeat the 6th and ;th 
rows. wtli row — Plain, over needle. Bring to a point 
by omitting the same mesh in each row, over the 
knitting-needle. Darn as illustrated. 

Number 609. Round Yoke. Materials.— Linen 
spool thread, No. 70; steel knitting-needle, No. 12; 




No. 607. Si ARF, 

15 



( See pages 14 and 17) 




No. 608. Netted Cape Collar. (See page 14) 



small (f^-inch) mesh-stick; and small darning-needle. 
The straight collar of this yoke is made in square 
netting, over knitting-needle. Follow directions for 
Fig. 8, page 4, making the strip 20 meshes wide, or 
about 2J/2 inches high, and as long as the required 
measure. When completed, run foundation thread the 
length of the collar and without breaking the thread, 
net 1 in every other stitch at the bottom of the collar, 
and net 2 in the alternate stitches. This is done over 
the knitting-needle used for the collar. Make 5 plain 
rows over needle. Jth row — Over mesh-stick, net 2 
in each loop. 8th row — Over needle, net 2 together. 
Make 8 rows plain, over needle. i/th row — Over 
mesh-stick, net plain. iSth row — Over mesh-stick, 



make a row of spider-stitch, which is done by first 
netting the second loop and then the first, net the 
fourth and then the third, etc. igth to 23d rows, inclu- 
sive — Plain netting, over needle. To give a firm thread 
at the bottom of the yoke, net one row over a small 
darning-needle. Darn the figures as illustrated. 

Number 610. Centrepiece. — This piece is 16 inches 
square. The net is 51 meshes square; if it is made 
one or two meshes larger all around (perhaps 55 
meshes square), it will be easier to finish the edge. 
At least five different stitches are used in the em- 
broidery — Point de toile (6 threads in each mesh), 
Point d'esprit, Serti, Rosettes, and Feuilles or Guipure. 




No. 609. Netted Round Yoke. (See page 15) 
16 




Fig. 35. 27 Meshes 
(See pages 15 and 20) 










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Fig. 39. 27 Meshes 
(See page 15) 



Fig. 43. 27 Meshes 
( See page 20 ) 



Fig. 36. 27 Meshes 
(See page 15) 




Fig. 
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Fig 


. 40. 2~ Meshes 
(See page 20) 















































































































































































Fig. 44. 27 Meshes 
(See page 10) 




Fig. 38 (See 
page 19) 



1 


IG. 41 
(Sec 


27 Meshes 
page 20 ) 



























































































































Fig. 42 ( See 
page 15) 





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Fig. 46 (See 
page 10) 







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Fig. 50. 
(See page 19) 




"ig. 47. 37 Meshes 
(See page 10) 



Fig. 48. 37 Meshl- 
(See page 10) 



Fig. 49. IS Meshes 
(See page 19) 



17 



The net should be well stretched in a frame before 
beginning these stitches. After this is completed, 
Point de feston (buttonhole-stitch) is finished around 
the edge and the superfluous meshes cut away. In 
the net there are 3 l A meshes to an inch, or 10 meshes 
to .5 inches. The mesh-stick should be 5« of an inch, 
and netting-needle No. 14 or 16. Number 40 linen lace 
thread is used for the stitches, and the same thread 



of a mesh, where it is necessary to leave the needle 
at the opposite side of the mesh, then five threads 
complete the weaving. 

Number 611. Centrepiece. — This centre is 26 inches 
in diameter, embroidered in eyelet and ladder work. 
One 3-inch insert of Filet is used. For this a 31-mesh 
net and 27-mesh initial may be substituted, or the 




No. 610. Filet Centrepiece. ( See page 16) 



(or perhaps No. 35) for the net, as may be preferred. 
It is rarely one finds as nearly perfect a piece of 
work as this beautiful centrepiece; the net is made 
with the utmost precision, and the stitches are exquis- 
itely placed, with the same precision and uniformity. 
In the Point de toile, six threads are woven in each 
mesh ; the large meshes require more weaving than 
smaller meshes where the rule is two threads each 
way in a mesh. There is an exception at the corner 



design Fig. 49, on page 17. may be used. A square 
somewhat larger would not crowd the eyelet-work of 
the stnmpedMinen. The edge is of Cluny, but might 
be made of Filet lace like that of No. 612. 

Number 612. Centrepiece. — This is 26 inches in 
diameter. There are four Filet inserts, each 3 inches 
square : these may be made like the illustration, 1 1 
meshes to 3 inches and woven in pattern Fig. 5". 



18 





(O. 01 



Centrepiece. (See page (8) 



Centrepiece. ( See pag 

page l", or a 31-mesh net (10 to an inch) with any 
preferred designs may be substituted. One initial and 
three different designs are suggested. The border is 
made in the same manner as the lace on page 10, and 
woven with pattern Fig. 38, page 17. It should be 
held slightly full in sewing on. 

Number 613. Centrepiece. — This is of square and 
circular netting. Materials. — Number 40 linen spool 
(bread; No. r2 knitting-needle; Yz, H, and % mesh- 
sticks (called "small," "medium" 
and "large"); netting - needle 
No. (6. 

Net ^5 stitches on foundation 
thread; widen in last stitch of 
each row, by netting in 2 stitches, 
until there are 75 meshes across. 
Net J5 rows without any widen- 
ing. Now narrow by netting the 
last two stitches of each row to- 
gether until there are 25 meshes left. 

This completes the octagon net; 
it is now ready for the border, 
which is made as follows : 1st 
row — Net r stitch in each mesh, 
over knitting-needle, except at the 
corners, where 2 should be netted 
in the same mesh to give needed 
fulness. _'</, 3d, and ///; rows — 
Like the 1st row. 5//1 row — Net I 
Mitch in each mesh, over medium 
mesh-stick. 6th row — Net 2 to- 
gether over small mesh-stick, /til 
row — Over medium, net 2 in 
every mesh. Sill to I2th rows, in- 
clusive — Over needle, net plain. 
Ijth row — Over medium, net 2 
stitches in each, r/th row — Over 
needle, net 2 together. Ijth to 
iSth row, inclusive — Over needle, 
net plain. 20/// row — Over large 
mesh-stick, net 4 stitches in every 
other mesh, jothrow — Over needle, No. 613. 



net 2 together. 31st and ?2</ rows — Net I in each mesh, 
over knitting-needle. Beginning at the centre, em- 
broider in Point de reprise, with Pearl cotton, or the 
same thread, of which the net is made, can be used. 

Figure 51 shows (actual size) an initial worked in 
Point de toile on a 35-mesh square. The initial is 
27 meshes high; the complete alphabet is given ori 
pages 46 and 47, Fig. 109. 

Number 614. Scarf. — This is 38 inches long and 
19 inches wide, of embroidered linen, with drawn- 




Centrepiece of Square and Circular Netting. 
19 



work, Reticella medal- 
lions, and eight Filet 
inserts. Four designs 
(two of each are made) 
are given at Figs. 35, 
39, 40, and 41, page 17. 
The lace border is net- 
ted as No. 607 and em- 
broidered as Fig. 42, 
page 17. 



*mw^&mm^V"&-* '••:■<•• 



Number 615. Cen- 
trepiece. — A centre of 
linen, narrowly hem- 
med, 13 inches in di- 
ameter, and 22 rounds 
of circular netting 
(making a border zYi 
inches wide), combine 
to make this very hand- 
some centrepiece. 

Materials. — One ball 
crochet cotton. No. 100; 
3 skeins embroidery 
cotton, letter F ; 2 
mesh-sticks, the larger 
1 inch, smaller -'« 
inch ; medium - sized 
steel knitting - needle, 
and one slightly smaller; a very small netting-needle 
for the finest work, and one of medium size, No. 16 
or 18, for the heavy thread. The two mesh-sticks will 
be designated as "large" and "small," the knitting- 
needles as "large needle" and "small needle." 

Prick, with a large pin, tiny holes all around the 
edge of the hem, three-eighths of an inch apart. Net 
the first round of plain netting into the hem (where 
it has been pricked), over the small mesh-stick. A 



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Fig. SI. 



Initial Lette 
( See pages i 



sewing-needle is neces- 
sary for this round. 
For the 3d round the 
embroidery cotton is 
used double, the net- 
ting-needle being filled 
by winding from two 
skeins at once, care be- 
ing taken to wind it 
v e r y evenly. Over 
small mesh-stick, net 2 
in each one of the 1st 
round. 3d, 4th, and 
pill rounds — Plain net- 
ting, with the thread, 
over large needle. 6th 
round — Net over the 
same needle thus — put 
the thread around the 
needle twice and net 
in the first loop, then 
make 2 single stitches 
(thread around the 
needle once) in the 
same loop; repeat in 
every second loop. Jth 
and Stli rounds are 
made like 6th round, 
netting into each long 
loop, leaving the small loops free, gth round — Over 
the large needle, net 2 stitches in each mesh. 10th 
and nth rounds — Plain netting, over large needle. 
12th round — With the inch mesh-stick and double 
embroidery cotton, net plain, rjth. ijth, and Ijtli 
rounds — Net plain, with thread, over large needle. 
16th round — Net plain, with double embroidery cotton, 
over small mesh-stick. ////; round — With thread, 
over large needle, net 1 stitch into the second loop. 



«««««•■■ 

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. ■■■■■;■.. : - : *mm 

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;r 27 Meshes High 
9 and 46) 




No. 614. Scarf of Embroidery. Cluny, and Filet. (See pages 19 and 17) 

20 



pass the first loop at the back of the second and net it ; 
repeat around. iSth and lglh rounds — Plain, over 
large needle, 30th round — With double embroidery 
cotton, net 6 stitches into every fourth loop around the 
centrepiece. 2lst and .'-'</ rounds — Xet plain, with the 
thread, over the small needle. Baste the work, wrong 
side up, on a piece of stiff paper and with a needle 
and cotton catch the long loops of uth round to- 
gether in groups of four, tying them as in drawn- 
work. Care must be taken to leave the cotton loose 
enough between the groups to prevent the work from 
drawing when removed from the paper. 

If a smaller centrepiece is wanted, use a smaller 
linen centre. Dainty doilies may be made to match 
this centre by using the first 5 and the last 7 round-.. 
Another style may l>e made by using the first 8 and 
the last 3 rounds. Still another by using 1st. 9th, 



10th, nth, 12th, 13th, 14th, 15th, and last 3 rounds. 

Number 616. Table-Cover. — This beautiful piece 
is 1J-2 yards square, with a border of Filet lace 4'_. 
inches wide. 

The cover is composed of 36 Filet squares, each y'/i 
inches. Six designs and six repeats of each design 
are used; the six designs are given on page 23. These 
are _>5-mesh squares, embroidered with the stitches 
explained in the preceding lessons; the illustrations 
on page 23 are large enough -that the stitches may be 
copied without further directions. Any other arrange- 
ment of the squares may be made. The mesh is 3-10 
of an inch, requiring a mesh-stick 3-5 of an inch in 
circumference; a -^-inch mesh-stick is the nearest 
that measure, the difference being only 1-40 of an inch. 
The netting-needle should be No. 14 or 16, or any size 




No. 615 i'fxthi'ih i 111 Linen and Circular Nettini 

21 



i See page 20) 



smaller ; and the thread No. 25 linen lace thread. The 
border is 15 meshes deep and the pattern 10 meshes 
long, alternating a rose and a star; the edge is solid 
with Point de toile and the ground of border is rilled 
in with Point d'esprit. 

Number 617. Lace for Altar Cloth. — This beauti- 
ful piece of Filet is embroidered entirely in Point de 



Point de reprise is made with soft floss (linen or 
cotton). The design is to be found at Fig. 97, page 
41. A row of treble crochet is made across the top 
and that is overcast to a %-inch tape. 

Number 618. Border for Alb. — This is a piece of 
wonderful beauty. The net measures 3 yards and 20 
incites by 42 inches (392 meshes by 128 meshes), 




No. 616. Table Cover of Filet Brode. (See pages 21 anil 23) 



reprise. The net is 3 yards and 6 inches (587 meshes) 
in length, and 12 3-5 inches (63 meshes) deep; made 
of very heavy thread (No. 25 linen), 5 meshes to an 
inch, and requires a mesh-stick 2-5 or Yt, of an inch. 
The centre panel (on page 24) is the centre panel 
of the whole; three panels- — "rose," "heart." "rose" — 
follow at each side, and the centre panel is repeated ; 
then "rose," "heart," "rose" again, with the centre 
panel at each end, making 17 panels in the whole. 



3 meshes to an inch, or rather 13 meshes to 4 inches 
requires a mesh-stick 5s-inch and netting-needle No. 14. 
The fragment given in the illustration shows the 
third and fourth row of "stars" from the top. The 
background is filled with Point d'esprit. From the 
top down there are 4 rows of background; 1st row of 
stars (9 meshes apart) ; 9 rows of background ; 2d row 
of stars; 8 rows of background; 3d row of stars; 
8 rows of background; 4th row of stars. A detail of 



22 




Meshes 



Figs. 52 to 57 [NCLUSIVE. Squares of Filet Brode. (See Table-Cover on page 

23 



2^ .Meshes 



!2) 




No. 617. Lace for Altar Cloth. (See pages 22 and 41) 




Xo. 618. Border for Alb of Filet Erode. (See Fig. 58 and page 22) 

24 




s 



to 



tfiifiC 



iaHirwwv/V4r 



w ... 







F 



g8. 1 lETAIL 



darning-needle; the smallest netting-needle (No. 22); 
a line knitting-needle ; medium-size knitting-needle ; and 
J^-inch mesh-stick. The last three will he designated 
as "fine needle," "medium needle," and mesh-stick. 

Use a strong thread for foundation loop. 1st round 
— Over medium needle, net 32 stitches in foundation 
loop. 2d round — Net 2 together, over darning-needle. 
3d round — Over medium needle, net 4 in each. 4th 
round — Over small needle, net 3 together. 5//1 round 
— Over small needle, net 2 in each. 6th to 10th rounds, 
inclusive — Over same, net plain (1 in each loop). /;/// 
round — Over mesh-stick, net 2 in each, 12th round — 
Over mesh-stick, net 2 together. 13th round — Over 
mesh-stick, net 4 stitches in each. 14th to 19th 
rounds, inclusive — Over small needle, net plain. 20II1 
round — Over mesh-stick, net plain. 2isi round — 
1 Iver mesh-stick, this round is in spider-stitch, which 
is made by netting the 2d stitch, then the 1st, the 
4th, then the 3d, all around. 22d to 25th rounds, in- 
clusive — Over small needle, net plain. 26th round — 
Over mesh-stick, net plain. 2Jth round — Over same, 
net 3 loops together. 28th round — Over same, net 4 in 
each. 2<)th to 34th rounds, inclusive — Over small needle, 
net plain. 35th round — Over mesh-stick, net plain. 
J(5:A round — Over same, net 3 together. 37th round — 
( )ver small needle, in Vandyke stitch, which is made by 
putting the thread twice over the needle and netting 
1 stitch, then netting twice more in the same loop, 



the grapes and 
leaves is given on 
this page. The grapes 
are "Rosettes" with 
"Brides," the leaves 
are filled with Point 
de toile, beautifully 
rounded with Filet 
Serti and veins of 
Guipure. 

Number 619. 
Centrepiece. — This 
centre is about 25 
inches square. Two 
Filet squares W}i 
inches (63 meshes) ; 
two hemstitched.em- 
broidered linens the 
same size; one hem- 
stitched, embroid- 
ered linen, finished 
4 inches square ; and 
four Cluny panels, 
io-;6 inches long 
and 4 inches wide, 
are combined in this 
centrepiece, and fin- 
ished with a Cluny 
lace edge. The de- 
sign of the Filet is 
given at Fig. 69, 
page 33. 

Number 620. 
Centrepiece. Mate- 
rials. — Number 00 
linen thread ; a small 




No. 619 



Centrepiece of 
25 



ilkt, Embroidery, and Cluny. i Sit page 33 1 



with thread over once as usual. jStli and 39th rounds 
— Like 37th round, netting in the long loop of the pre- 
vious round. 40th round — Over mesh-stick, net 5 in 
each. 41st to 48th rounds, inclusive — Over small nee- 
dle, net plain. 49th round — Over mesh-stick, net plain. 
50th round — Over mesh-stick, spider-stitch, like 21st 
round, fist to j~th rounds, inclusive — Over small needle, 
net plain. 38th round — Over mesh-stick, net plain. 59th 



When- done, draw the stitches'- on the foundation 
thread as close as possible and ^ie securely. 

Number 621. Doily. Materials. — One spool linen 
thread, No. 50; embroidery floss,- letter E or F; %-inch 
mesh-stick; large knitting-needle; netting-needle No. 
20 or 22. Net, over mesh-stick, 44 stitches into foun- 
dation loop. Net 10 rounds plain, over needle. 12th 




No. 620. Netted Centkepiece. (See page 251 



round — Over same.net 3 together. 60th to 63d rounds, 
inclusive — In Vandyke stitch, like 37th to 39th rounds. 
64th round — Over mesh-stick, net 5 in each. 65th to 
69th rounds, inclusive — Over small needle, net plain. 
For the border, continue to use the small needle and 
form the points by omitting every 13th stitch in the 
1st round of the border. Omit the same stitch in every 
round, leaving the thread between a little longer each 
time. Do this until the points are reduced to one loop. 



round — Nejt, over mesh stick, into every other loop, 
netting 5 in 1st, 4 in 3d, 5 in 5th, 4 in 7th, alternating 
between 5 and 4 all around, and omitting the 2d, 4th, 
6th, etc., stitches. Net 10 rounds plain, over needle, 
then finish off 9 points and darn with embroidery 
floss, in Point de reprise, as illustrated. 

Number 622. Doily. Materials. — One spool thread. 
No. 50; fine netting-needle (No. 22); %-inch mesh- 



26 



slick; large knitting-needle; embroidery floss, letter 
E. Net 40 stitches over mesh-stick into foundation 
loop. Net 5 rounds plain, over knitting-needle. 7//1 
round — Over mesh-stick, net into every other loop. 
Sth round — Over mesh-stick, net 4 in each. The next 
9 rounds, net plain, over needle. iSlh round — Over 
mesh-stick, net in every other loop, lytli round — Over 
mesh-stick, net 4 in each. The next 10 rounds, over 
needle, net plain. 10th round — Over mesh-stick, nei 
in ever_\- other stitch, jist round — Over mesh stick, 
net 4 in each. The 10 rounds following, over needle, 
net plain. Then finish with the points, which are made 
by netting hack and forth, leaving the last stitch each 





I'n.. 59. Wide Netted Edging. 



No. 621. Netted and Embroidered Doily 
(See page 26) 

dium mesh-stick. Sth row — Over large mesh-stick, 
4 in each. tjlli. roth, and lltli rows — Over small mesh- 
stick, net plain. 12th row — Over large, net plain. 
/.?//; rou — Over medium, net 3 together, i-fth and 
ijth roivs — Over medium, net plain. iMh rote — Over 
large, net 3 in each, iytli row — Over small, net plain. 

Figure 60. Edging. — Use the same mesh-sticks 



time until but one remains. 
Thirteen points can be made by 
adding 5 stitches in the 40th 
round, which otherwise would 
have 320 meshes; 14 points can 
be made by adding 2 stitches in 
the 40th round. The design is 
darned with embroidery floss in 
Point de reprise. 

Figure 59. Edging. — Three 
mesh-sticks are required — small 
(5^-inch), medium (fjj-inch), 
and large ( %-inch ) ; and No. 
16 or iS netting-needle. Seven 
rows an- netted plain, over me- 





Fig. fio. Netted Edging 



No. 622. Netted and Embroidered Doii.y. (See page 26) 
27 




o. 623. Doily. 



and needle as for Fig. 59. Net on a long foundation 
cord, or into linen centre. Medium mesh-stick is used, 
except where noted. Five rows of plain netting. 
6th row — Net plain in first stitch, net 4 in every second 
stitch. yth row — Net 2 of the 4 loops with loop at the 
left ; net the other 2 with the loop at the right. 
8th row — Like 6th row, netting groups of 4 between 
groups above. Qth and n 111 rows — Like 7th row. 
10th row — Like 6th row. 12th row — Over large mesh- 
stick, net 4 in the loop beneath two groups above, 
skip 1. 13th row — Over small mesh-stick, net 
plain. 





No. 625. Doily. (See page 30) 



No. 624. Doily. ( See page 30) 



Number 600. Cover of Filet, Embroidery, and 
Cluny. (Frontispiece). — Twelve blocks of Filet, 13 
blocks of linen, hemstitched and embroidered with 
Hedebo and Reticella, a border of Cluny and edge of 
Filet lace, compose this beautiful cover. The Filet 
blocks are about 7 inches ; for these the patterns (63 
meshes) are given at Figs. 87 
to 95, inclusive. The em- 
broidered blocks are fin- 
ished the same size. The 
edge is made in the same way 
as No. 601, page 10. and the 
block pattern is Fig. 96, 
page 40. Upon the exact size 
of the Filet blocks depends 
the whole size, as the size of 
the linens can be varied to 
match the Filet. About a 
yard square is the measure 
of the piece inside the Cluny 
border. 

The following four pieces 
comprise a set of doilies, ;'.. 
11, 15, and 20 inches in di- 
ameter. Materials. — Number 
40 or 50 Cordonnet : medium 
knitting-needle and ^-inch 
mesh-stick; and No. 22 net- 
ting-needle. 

Number 623. Doily. — On 
foundation loop, net 20 
stitches over mesh-stick, zd. 
3d and 4th rounds — Over 
needle, net plain. 5th round 
— Over mesh-stick, 3 in each. 
6th. Jth, and Sth rounds — 
Over needle, net plain. Qth 
round — Over mesh-stick, 2 in 
each. 10th round — Over nee- 
dle, net 2 together. nth 



28 



mtwrnm 









round — Over mesh-stick, 
net 3 in each, istli to 
ijlh rounds, inclusive — 

1 >vei needle, net plain. 
Border, isl round — 

Over mesh-stick, net in 
every alternate loop. 2d 
round — Over mesh-stick, 
5 in every alternate loop. 
jd round — Net plain, use 
needle to the end. 4II1 
round — Net 4 in group 
of 5. skip 1. fith round 
— Net 3 in group of 4, 
skip 1. 6tli round — Net 

2 in group of 3, skip 1. 7//1 round — Net 1 in 2, skip I. This brings the 
"pineapple" to a point. This doily is ~' j inches in diameter. 








No. 6j5. Netted Bow. (See page 32) 



Fig. 61. Netted Border with Frin 
(See page 31) 




No 02;. Centrepiece. (See page 30) 
29 



Number 624. Doily. — Net 20, on foundation loop, 
. .ver mesh-stick. 2d. 3d, 4th, and 5th rounds — Over 
needle, net plain. 6th round — Over mesh-stick, 3 in 
each, 7th to 10th rounds, inclusive — Over needle, net 
plain, nth, 13th and ijtli rounds — Over mesh-stick, 
2 in each. 12II1 and 14th rounds — Over needle, net 2 
together. lbth to 19th rounds, inclusive — Like 7th 
round. 20th round — Over mesh-stick, net plain. 21st 
round — Over mesh-stick, spider-stitch (net 2d, then 
net 1st). 22d to 25th rounds, inclusive — Like 7th 
round. 26th round — Over mesh-stick, 2 in each. 27th 
to 30th rounds, inclusive — Like 7th round. Make Bor- 
der as for No. 623. This is 11 inches in diameter. 

Number 625. Doily. — Follow directions for 11- 
inch doily, No. 624, for 25 rounds; that is, until 4 
rounds, after the spider-stitch, are finished. 26th 
round — Over mesh-stick, 3 in each. 27th. 2Sth. 29th, 



and 30th rounds — Over needle, net plain. This makes 
the band of close netting, 31st round — Over mesh- 
slick, net plain, j.'d round. — Over needle, net 2 
together. 33d and 34th rounds — Like 27th round. 
35th round — Over mesh-stick, net plain. 36th round 
— Over needle, Rose netting (see page 151. 37th 
and 38th rounds — Like 35th and 36th rounds. 39th 
and 40th rounds — Like 27th round. 41st round — Over 
mesh-stick, 2 in each. 42d. 43d and 44th rounds — Like 
39th round. Border like that of No. 623. This is 15 
inches in diameter. 

Number 627. Centrepiece. — On foundation loop, 
over mesh-stick, net 20 stitches. 2d. 3d, and 4II1 
rounds — Over needle, net plain. 5th round — ( >ver 
mesh-stick, 3 in each. 6th to gth rounds, inclusive — 
Like 2d round. 10th round — Over mesh-stick, net 




No. 628. Centrepiece in Gros Filet. (See pages 31 and 32 ) 

30 



round — Over mesh-stick, -' in 
each. ;///; and ijtli ryunds 
—Like M round. 
round — Over mesh^ticfc; 4 
in each. l~lh to 22d rounds, 
inclusive — Like 2d round. 
This forms the band, of 
close netting. 23d round — 
Like lotli round. 24th 
round — Over mesh - stick, 
net 4 together. 25th and 
26th rounds — Like 2d round. 
j-lli round — Like 10th 
round. 28th and 29th rounds 
— Like 2d round. 30th round 
(her mesh-stick, 2 in 
each. 31st round — Over 
needle, net 2 together. J2d 
round — Like 2d round. 33d 
round — Over mesh-stick, 2 
in each. 34th to 38th rounds, 
inclusive — Like 2d round. 
JO/A round — Like 10th 




round. fiith round — Over 
needle. Rose netting (see 
page 151. pst round — Like 
2d round. ./2d round — Like 
loth round. 13d round — 
Over needle, Rose netting. 
44th and ijth rounds — Like 
2<\ round. 46th round — Over 
mesh-stick, 2 in each. 47th 
to goth rounds, inclusive — 
Like 2d round, fist round 
— Like 10th round. $2d 
and 53d rounds — Over 
mesh - stick, spider - stitch. 
54th to 57th rounds, inclu- 
sive — Like 2d round. 

Border. — Like Border of 
\o. 623. 

Figure 61. Border with 
Fringe. — The netting is all 
plain. On a long founda- 



I 11., 63. Pattern of No. 628. (See page 30) 



31 




No. 629. Netted and Embroidered Doily 
( See page 33 > 

tion thread, over small (-Hs-inch) mesh-stick, net 7 
rows. Stli row — Over large (%-inch) mesh-stick, oth, 
10th, and nth rows — Over small mesh-stick. 12th 
rozv — Over large mesh-stick. 13th, 14th, and 15th 
rows — Over small mesh-stick. Fringe.— Wrap the 
thread over a 2-inch measure, use 8 strands and tie 
in each loop. 

Number 626. Netted Bow.' Materials. — Crochet 
cotton. No. 50; netting-needle, No. 22; two ivory rings, 
•\x-inch in diameter; %-inch mesh-stick. Net into 
ivory ring, over mesh-stick, 45 stitches. 2d to 6th 
rounds, inclusive — Over medium knitting-needle, net 
plain. /Ill round — Over mesh-stick, 4 in first stitch, 
skip 2; repeat. Stli and 9//1 rounds — Over needle, net 
plain. Make two and join over maline or silk. 

Number 628. Centrepiece in Gros Filet. — In this 





No. 631. Netted Scallop. (See page 37) 

centrepiece, which measures one yard and ten inches in 
diameter, we have a very fine example of the newest 
application of Filet, called Gros Filet. It is in the 
materials employed that the work is unique, not in 
the methods. Simple square netting, and the design 
(Fig. 63, page 31) woven in Point de toile, describes 
the work. But the use of linen knitting thread No. 8, 




Fig. 64. Netted Insertion. (See page 48) 




Fig. 65. Netted Insertion. (See page 48) 




Fig. 66. Netted Insertion'. (See page 48) 




No. 630. Doily. ( See page 34 1 



32 



Fig. 67. Netted Insertion. (See page 48) 




Fig. 08. Netted Edging. (See page 48) 

a very coarse thread (about the size of No. 2 Cor- 
donnet), and mesh-stick about % of an inch (or to 
be exact, 2 /s of an inch) makes a net, the size of which 
is seen at Fig.- 62, page 31, a detail of the Gros Filet. 
The thread for weaving is soft and loose, and is 
clearly shown in the detail of work. 

One-half of the pattern is given, including the cen- 
tral mesh. One hundred and thirty-three meshes is 
the size, but if several meshes are added, it is easier 




to finish the 
edge and cut 
away one or 
two rows of 
meshes. Num- 
ber 12 net- 
ting - needle 
and % - inch 
(or Y{) mesh- 
stick will 
make the re- 
quired size. A 
tape-needle or 
ribbon- 

threader may be used to advantage for the weaving, 
or a blunt-pointed tapestry needle may be used. 

Number 629. Doily. Materials. — One spool thread 
No. 30; netting-needle No. 22; %-inch mesh-stick; 
large knitting-needle ; embroidery floss letter D. 

Net 40 stitches, over mesh-stick into foundation loop. 
sd to 5th rounds, inclusive — Over needle, net plain, 
6th round — Over mesh-stick, net in every alternate 
stitch. 7th round — Over mesh-stick, net 4 in each. 



No. 632. Netted Scallop 
( See page 48) 



■■■■■ ■■■■■■■■■■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■_■_■ 




•Yc. 69. Pattern of No. 619 (page 25) 
3.3 



83 meshes 



87th 
row 



Centre 87th row 




Fig. 70 



Nel 7 rounds over needle, plain. 15th and iftth rounds 
— Like 6th and 7th rounds. Ten rounds over needle, 
plain. 2/tli round — Over mesh-stick, net in every third 
loop. iStlt round — Over mesh-stick, net 7 in every 
loop for "pineapple" edge. 2Qth and 30th rounds — 
Over needle, net plain, jrst round — Net fi into group 



meshes 



of 7. 32d round — Net 5 into 
group of 6. 33d round— 
Net 4 into group of 5. 
Continue until but one mesh 
is left in the point of 7. 
The thread should he left 
loose between groups as 
the number of stitches de- 
creases. Embroider with 



floss in Point de reprise, as illustrated. 

Number 630. Doily. Materials. — Spool cotton 
No. 40: small (J^-inch), medium (5^-inch), and 

large (j^g-inch) mesh-sticks: and netting-needle 
No. 16 or 18. Into a foundation loop net 34 stitches 



34 



Centre 87th row 



87th 

row 




1 1-. 1 r largi mesh-stick. 2d, 
3d, fth, and 5th rounds — 
Over small mesh-stick, net 

6th and ~lh rounds 

— Over medium mesh-stick, 

net plain. 8th round —Over 

medium, * net 4 plain : net 

4 in t ■ ■ next loop *; repeat. p IGi -_, 

0//1 round — Over medium, 

* net .1 plain: net two loops of the uroup of 4 with 

the 4tli; net the remaining two with the next loop to 

the right *; repeat. roth round— Like 6th round. 

nth round — Over large, net 3 in each, nth, 13th, 

ijlh, 15th, and 16th rounds — Like 2d round. ijih 

round— Over large, net .1 in eaeh. iStli. igth, 20th, and 



67 meshes 

Jist rounds — Like _'il round. 22d round — Over large, 
net plain. 23d round — Over medium, net 4 together 
24th round — Like 6th round. 2ith round — Over large, 
net 4 into every alternate loop. 26th round — Like -><1 
round. Any centrepiece or doily can be enlarged by 
repeating and increasing the design as required 



35 




Fig. 76 



41 meshes 



Fig. 77 



41 meshes 




Fig. 78 






79x25 meshes Fig. 79. 16x23 meshes 



36 




Number 631. Netted Scallop. 
Materials. — Small (fcjs-inch) and 
medium (5-s-inch) mesh-sticks; 
netting needle No. 16 or 18. 

On foundation loop, over medi- 



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Fig. 81 
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Fig. 83 



meshe 



urn mesh-stick, net 12 stitches. 
Turn. 2d row — Over same, net 2 
in each. Turn each time. 3d, 4th, 
5th, and ''Ih rows— Over small Fig. 84 
[continued on page 45] 



31 meshes 




Fin. 85. 13 meshes Fig. 86 
wide (see page 10) 



79x25 meshes 



37 



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Fig. 



(See Frontispiece) 



63 meshes Fig. 90 63 meshes 

(See Frontispiece) 



38 



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)'ii,. in 



(See Frontispiece) 



63 meshes 







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(See Frontispiece) 



63 meshes 



39 



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Fig. 93 (See Frontispiece) 63 meshes Fig. 94 63 meshes 

(See Frontispiece) 




Fig. 96 



(See Frontispiece) 



22 meshes wide 




Fig. 98 — Continued. (See pages 42. 43, and 47) 



H meshes high 



40 




Fig. 94 — Continued p IG j 



(See Frontispiece) 



63 meshes 




Fig. 97 



( See No. 617, Lace for Altar Cloth, page 24) 
41 



587 x 63 meshes 




Fig. 98. Alphabet, 33 meshes high. (See pages 43 and 40 and 4;) 



Fig. 99 
9 meshes 



■:!i:i!:'iii , ! i [==!i==!!ijjj!!:l'!'i==! 

;i::i;;;iEi;j:i:i;::i:i;:ji!i;:ji:ij::E 



III 




I 



mm 



Fig. 99 — Continued 



9 meshes high 



42 




Fig. ioi 



43 



12 meshes high 



fll l l i lllllllfl l ll l llll llll liliil 




Fig. 102. (See page 47) 



23 meshes high 



44 




SSS 


www 


m 


















v 


::::■ 






Hifl 




I 1 


^J M^b ■ 


- 




^HH HH 





Fig. 106 



41 meshes 



Fig. 103. (See No. 605, page 




Fig. 104. (See No. 60s, page 13) 53 


meshes 



























































































































Fig. 1 os 



19 meshes wide 
45 



[continued prom page 37] 

mesh-stick, net plain. 7II1 row— Over medium, 
net plain. 8th row— Over medium, make one 
row of puffs in this way: Net I, make the 
puff in the second stitch hy passing the thread 
3 times over the mesh-stick and up through 
the stitch last worked into, then pass the 
thread around the fingers as usual and insert 
the needle between the first and second loops 
of the last row. draw the knot as usual. Net 
plain in the next stitch and puff in the second. 
(jth row — Over medium, net plain in the long 
loops, iolh row— Like 8th, having the puffs 
come between the puffs above, nth row— 
Over medium, net plain into the long loops. 
I2lh row — Over medium, net 2 in each loop. 
13th row — Like 3d row. 14II1 am! 15th rows 
— Like 7th row. 16th row — Over medium, net 
into every other loop, holding thread on the 
mesh-stick, slanting to make longer loops. 
[concluded on page 48] 




Fig. 109 



Fig. 108. Alphabet. 27 meshes high. (See page 47) 
10 meshes Fig. no 9 meshes Fig. hi 

46 



9 meshes 




Fig. 108 — Continued 

27 meshes high 

Fig. 98. Z. (See page 42) 



Fig. 112. (See No. 606, page 14). 48 meshes 
47 



Fig. 102 — Continued 
23 meshes high 



^AXXXKXX XHXJ^ 



WWAfr 




Fig. 113. (See No. 605, page 13) 



51 meshes 




Fig. 115 



(CONCLUDED KRUM PALE 45 | 

Figure 64. Insertion. — Net 3 rows plain 
over small (f^-inch) mesh-stick. 4th row — 
Over medium ( 5/jj-inch ) mesh-stick, net plain. 
$th row — Over small mesh-stick. Rose netting 
(see page 15). 6th, 7th, and 8th rows — Over 
small mesh-stick, net plain. 

Figure 65. Insertion. — Over small mesh- 
stick (-Ms-inch), net 4 rows plain. $ih row — 
'Over large mesh-stick (%-inch), net plain. 
i)lh raw — Over small mesh-stick, Rose netting. 
7th, 8th, 9th, and loth rows — Over small mesh- 
stick, net plain. For the crochet edge make 
2 double crochet stitches into each loop. 

Figure 66. Insertion. — Over small mesh- 
stick (-Ms-inch), net 2 rows plain. 3d row — 
Over medium mesh-stick ( 5/6-inch), net plain. 
4th row — Over small mesh-stick. Rose netting, 
$th and 6th rows — Like 1st row. 7th row- 
Like 3d row. Sth rozv— Rose netting, like 4th 
row. 9th and 10th rows — Like 1st row. nth 
row — Like 3d row. 12th row— Rose netting, 
like 4th row. 13th rozv — Like 1st row. 

Figure 67. Insertion. 1st row — Over small 
mesh-stick (^-inch), net plain. 2d rozv— Over 
medium mesh-stick (s^-inch), net plain. 3d 
row — Over small, Rose netting. 4th rou — 
Like 2d row. 5th rozv— Over small, Rose net- 
ting. 6th row — Like 2d row. 7th row — Over 
small, Rose netting. 8th row— Like 2d row. 
9th rozv— Over small, Rose netting. 10th row 
— Like 2d row. nth rozv— Over small, Rose 
netting. 12th and 13th rows — Like 1st row. 

Figure 68. Edging. 1st rozv— Over small 
mesh-stick (-Ms-inch), net plain on a long foun- 
dation thread. 2d rozv— Over large mesh-stick 
(%-inch), net plain. 3d, 4th, and 5th rows— 
<>vi-r small mesh-stick, net plain. 6th rozv— 
( >ver small, net 4 stitches plain, net 3 in fifth 
stitch. 7th rozv— Over small, net the 3 stitches 
as 1, together with the loop at the right, net 
the rest plain. Sth, 9II1, and 10th rows— Like 
1st row. nth rozv— Like 2d row. 12th, 13th, 
and 14th rozvs— Like 1st row. 15th row- 
Over large mesh-stick, * net 4 times into one 
loop, skip 2, net I, skip 2 * : repeat from * to *. 
16th and 17th rozvs— Over small mesh-stick, 
net plain. 

Number 632. Netted Scallop.— On a foun- 
dation loop, over medium mesh-stick (5^-inch), 
net 12 stitches. Turn, zd rozv— Over same, 
net plain. Turn at each row. 3d row— Over 
medium, net 2 in each 4'h rozv— Over medium, 
net plain. ,i//( row— Over small mesh-stick 
wrap the thread once around the mesh-stick 
and net 2 into the next loop; this will make 
one long and two short stitches. 6th row— 
Like 5th row, netting into long loops and leav- 
ing the short ones free. 7th row— Net into 
long loops, over small mesh-stick. 8th row— 
Plain over small mesh-stick. Draw up foun- 
19 meshes wide dation thread and tie to form a scallop. 

48 



rig* 








PRISCILLA LIBRARY 

Practical Instruction Books for Needleworkers 



Priscilla Irish Crochet Book, No. 1— This book 
has all the stitches and fillings for Irish Crochet, to- 
gether with a large assortment of floral motifs. Full 
directions for working are given. Price, 25 cents 

Priscilla Irish Crochet Book, No. 2 — This second 
book on I rish Croc het supplements the first very 
nicely, and gives a large assortment of motifs and 
finished articles, with clear and full directions for 
working. Price, 25 cents 

Priscilla Bobbin Lace Book — The designs in this 
bonk take up the work from the beginning, all the 
tools and materials being fully described. Beautiful de- 
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laces, with full directions for working. Price, 25 cents 

Priscilla Cross Stitch Book — Has nearly two hundred 
working patterns for different articles for which cross- 
stitch is used. Many of them are suitable for bead- 
work. There are also six alphabets and directions for 
all kinds of canvas work. Price, 25 cents 

Priscilla Tatting Book — This book contains many 
new designs for dress garnitures, collars, handkerchiefs, 
centrepieces, doilies, etc., with full directions for 
working. Price, 25 cents 

Priscilla Knitting Book — This is a most useful 
collection of patterns for knitting, consisting of articles 
for men, women, and children. Articles in wool 
predominate. Price, 25 cents 

Priscilla Battenberg and Point Lace Book — Here 

are practical, illustrated directions for making lace. 
Each step is taken up. Over one hundred stitches are 
shown, both simple and complicated. Price, 25 cents 

Priscilla Macrame Book — Shows in detail how 
to do this fascinating form of Lace Work. Over ioo 
designs for Bags, Dress Garnitures, etc. 

Price, 25 cents 

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With the aid of this new hook any one can learn this 
form of Emhroidery. A wealth of designs given for 
Table Covers, Baby Wear, etc. Illustrations show stitches, 
and a detail of nearly every design given. 

Price, 25 cents 

Priscilla Crochet Edgings and Insertions Book — 

This book contains over ioo designs for beautiful cro- 
chet edgings and insertions which can be put to a multi- 
tude of uses. Handsomely illustrated with complete 
instructions. Price, 25 cents 

Priscilla Cook Book — While this is not a Fancy Work 
Instruction Book, its contents are so interesting to most 
women that we have listed it here. Contains 442 dainty, 
appetizing and practical recipes by the famous culinary 
expert, Fanny Merritt Farmer. Price, 25 cents 



Priscilla Punched Work Book — The beautiful de- 
signs In this book include articles for personal wear, 
table pieces, bedspreads, curtains, bureau-covers, cushions, 
pillows, lamp-shades, etc. All the stitches are illustrated 
and full directions given. Price, 25 cents 

Priscilla Bead Work Book — This book gives direc- 
tions for making all kinds of bead-work and illustrates 
many designs for bags, purses, card-cases, necklaces of 
all kinds, pendants, chains, girdles, hair ornaments, etc. 
The best book on bead-work. Price, 25 cents 

Priscilla Filet Crochet Book — This new book gives 
a wide variety of patterns. Many illustrations of finished 
work are given, showing the beautiful effects possible, 
and a multitude of designs are carried out in block 
effect so that they can be easily copied. Price, 25 cents 

Priscilla Basketry Book — In this new Basketry Book 
have been included the best of the various articles on 
basketry that have appeared in The Modern Priscilla 
from time to time, and a variety of new material never 
before published. Price, 25 cents 

Priscilla Hardanger Book — In the opening chapters 
will be found the various foundation stitches and their 
many combinations. Following these will be found 
many attractive designs with details and copious descrip- 
tive text, making their reproduction an easy matter. 

Price, 25 cents 

Priscilla Drawn Work Book— Full-sized details of 
each design are an important feature of this book, and 
by their aid the most intricate patterns can be copied 
with ease. Designs from Porto Rico, Fayal, Germany, 
Russia, and far-off China, besides many in the well- 
known Mexican work, make this book an unusual one. 

Price, 25 cents 

Priscilla Wool Crochet Book — This book consists of 
articles in wool for men, women, and children. The 
section for babies and children deserves special mention. 
Fully illustrated. Price, 25 cents 

Priscilla Colored Cross Stitch Books — No. 1. 

Has four (4) full-page plates in full color, illustrating 
35 separate designs and a complete alphabet. 
No. 2. This hook also has four (4) full pages in color, 
illustrating 40 designs. Facing each plate is a full page 
of text matter, giving a wealth of suggestions for the 
worker. Price, 25 cents each 

Priscilla Crochet Bedspreads Book — Our new book 
of Crochet Bedspreads contains a large number of designs 
which are beautifully illustrated and have full directions. 
A striking novelty is a motto insertion in the new Cameo 
Crochet. Price, 25 cents 



LIBRARY 


OF CONGRESS 


II 


III 


HI 


11 



000 208 689 ft 




The Most 

Helpful 

Magazine 

For Women 

There are many mag- 
azines devoted to 
stories, many others 
rilled with miscellane- 
ous matter of more or 
less value and general 
interest; but there is 
just one magazine that 
specializes in the two 
subjects most closely 
associated with the 
average woman's daily 
life — "Fancy -Work" 
and "Housekeeping" 
— with just enough 
clever, wholesome fic- 
tion added to give 
zest. That magazine is 

The Modern Priscilla. 



WHAT "FANCY-WORK" MEANS 

When they see or hear the word "Fancy- Work," many people think 
only of Art Needlework. But as used by The Modern Priscilla, the 
expression "Fancy- Work" has a much broader meaning. It includes not 
only Embroidery, in all its manifold varieties, but it includes as well such 
feminine handicrafts and occupations as Knitting, Cri hot, Lace-making, 
Weaving, Netting, Tatting, Basketry, Bead-work, Oil, Water-color, and 
China Painting, Stenciling, A rl Brass Work, Art Leatht r Work. 1'yruy- 
raphy, and the like. 

In The Modern Priscilla space is devoted to all these subjects from 
time to time, and no other magazine covers them half so thoroughly. 

WHAT PRISCILLA GIVES 

In connection with what is broadly termed "Fancy-Work," The 
Modern Priscilla gives a threefold service . 1. It supplies designs in 
infinite variety and of rare beauty {from 50 to 100 each month l f with pat- 
terns for those who desire them. 2. It gives detailed and explicit in- 
struction, so clear and complete that any woman of average intelligence 
can gain proficiency in the work that most appeals to her. 3. It provides 
a wealth of suggestions for the practical use and application of the knowl- 
edge thus gained. 

HOW FASHIONS FIT IN 

This last service is especially noticeable in the Fash ion Department, 
where in addition to sane and sensible adaptations of the latest mode*. 
the use of the most appropriate embroidery is pictured and described in 
connection with each costume illustrated. 

HOW PRISCILLA SAVES ITS COST 

"Fancy-Work" it will now be seen, at least the "Fancy-Work" that 
The Modern Priscilla stands for, is no frivolous occupation for idle 
hours, but a decidedly useful occupation, that will supply at small cost 
many a dainty bit of wearing apparel or household decoration that could 
otherwise be had only at considerable expense, or perhaps could not be 
afforded at all. 

Many a subscriber has gratefully acknowledged this debt to Priscilla, 
more than a few asserting that asingle copy has often suggested econ- 
omies amounting to more than the year's subscription price. 

HOW A GOOD MAGAZINE WAS MADE BETTER 

Much as can truthfully be said about the "Fan . alue of 

The Modern Priscilla, scarcely half the story has been told. 

In 1911 the publishers of The Modern Priscilla purchased the well 
known domestic science magazine called " Everyday Housekeeping," and 
indue season merged it with their older publication, making what has 
well been called a "Double Value Magazine ." 

THE MISSION OF "EVERYDAY HOUSEKEEPING" 

"Everyday Housekeeping" is now a distinct and-«eparate section of 
The Modern Priscilla, and it is the aim of the edito: "f the 

greatest possible helpfulness to Priscilla readers. 

Its recipes are economical, appetizing and nourishing, its special 
articles are authoritative and deal with practical subjects, its hints, helps 
and suggestions are gleaned from the experience of housekeepers the 
country over. 

THE PRICE SMALL— THE VALUE UNUSUAL 

When all the foregoing is considered, even the most critical must ad 
mit that at SI .00 a year The Modern Priscilla is an exceptional value 
(Canadian subscription price.^1.25) and that its steady growth in circu- 
lation from a few hundred copni ' 00 to-day is 

but the natural outcome of its policy of helpfuln 

The news-stand price of The Modern Pi: cents a copy. 

Orders for subscriptions should be sent to The Priscilla Publishing Com- 
pany, 85 Broad Street, Boston, Mass. 



